Tom Ford Violet Blonde Givenchy Eaudemoiselle de Givenchy Guerlain Idylle Mimosas are pod-bearing shrubs and trees now native mostly to Australia and the Pacific, though they put on a pretty spectacular show around the heartland of perfumery in Grasse, too, in the south of France . If you ever come across a piece of the wood itself, its magical: the scent can still be enjoyed, years after it was harvested. Watch out for peach blossom becoming a more popular perfume ingredient, as the influence of the Middle East which has made for so many heady perfumes in recent years moves East, in response to the dawning love of fragrance among the Chinese. The nectar-like aroma you smell in a peach-y fragrance, though, may actually be a synthetic: aldehyde C14 (a.k.a. Little darling. It gets its name from the Italian word amaro (for bitter) - even though the legendary alcoholic drink (lugged back home from many a Duty Free) is actually sweet and almond-y. Figs become an incredibly fashionable fragrance note for both men and women, lately, with its complex mix of bitter green and milky-sweet elements, conjuring up languid lunches in the shade of fig trees in hot, sunny places. Dior Miss Dior Chrie Oddly enough, I find that my customers describe certain synthetic fragrances as fresh and natural. Dali Wild Used in perfumes since ancient times, vetivers more popular than ever and features very, very widely in the base of fragrances because it works brilliantly as a fixative and so far, nobody seems to have come up with a satisfactory synthetic alternative. Eventually, it is retrieved from a shoreline on the beach." Lanvin Jeanne Lanvin Clinique Aromatics Elixir Its used in Indian cooking and also as a medicinal not surprisingly, as a repellent. Dior Les Crations de Monsieur Dior Diorling (Though mandarin also blends beautifully with spices like nutmeg, cinnamon and clove in perfumery rather as it does around Christmas-time, in cooking and in our homes). It can "lift" white flowers, but also - in partnership with woods or amber - can create roundness and depth. When Cleopatra welcomed Mark Antony to her boudoir, her bed was strewn with these aphrodisiac blooms and the floor hidden under a foot and a half of fresh-picked petals. And in perfumery? Calvin Klein Eternity Indole is sexy, powerful, intense va-va-voom, in a bottle. They like slow-moving or still water: lakes, or the edges of rivers, and there are dozens of different varieties all beautiful, and all short-lived: each flower blooms, closes at night, and lasts for just a few days. "Ambergris develops a more pleasant aroma the longer it is cured by natures elements in the sea. "It adds a sunny sparkle to the top notes and blends harmoniously with everything from other citruses, to fruits, florals, and woods.". It is both immediately recognizable and versatile.. It has a touch of pine to it: a bit sappy, a touch bitter, but definitely fresh and powerful, so its generally used in small doses. At Unilever, we think there is a certain magic to fragrances - bringing together perfumery artistry and scientific expertise. 19. Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy 9 Eau de New York Christian Dior Sakura LArtisan Parfumeur Fleur dOranger Chanel No. Herms Un Jardin Sur Le Nil Nina Ricci LAir du Temps Its pretty unusual to see quinces growing (although the Spanish do use it to make a paste, membrillo, which is served with cheese) but they look half-way between a pear and an apple (to which its related). (What you see in a photo is the pod: pop it open and the tiny seeds spill out.) When the Iranian revolution broke out in 1979, the oil supply dried up and Chanels perfumer faced the challenge of reworking this iconic scent. Melvita Orange Blossom Floral Water Sometimes.) As a flower, orange blossom has long played a role in weddings: maidens have carried it in bouquets and woven it into bridal headdresses since the time of the Crusaders, when trees were brought from the East to Europe, and began to flourish here. Henry Rose reveals 100 percent of the ingredients used to create its . (Petitgrain, which you can read about here, is extracted from the leaves, for instance.) Kylie Minogue Darling Floris A Rose For But theres one snag with this exquisite material: its been blacklisted by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) as a potential irritant, its use restricted by European regulation to 0.1% in perfume compositions that are applied to the skin a restriction which has sent noses into tailspins in labs across the world, as they were forced to remove or reduce this lynchpin ingredient in their often very famous formulations. Chanel Chance Atelier Cologne Vanille Incense Even with the popularity of fruity-floral scents, kumquats still make an appearance on our plates far more often than in our perfume bottles. Donna Karan DKNY Be Delicious Sparkling Apple All names for the same plant, with those fabulous yellow pom-pom flowers which look delicate, but fill a room with their dreamy sweetness in minutes. Celine Dion Paris Night Add a touch to a perfume, and it gives a bittersweet, leathery, intimate quality: a little bit earthy, but soft at the same time. Violet leaves smell quite different to the flower which emerges later. From the striped heartwood of a small tree called Palo Santo (Bulnesia sarmienti) which translates as tree of life - its not as down-and-dirty as agarwood (oud), but is nevertheless used to give depth and intrigue to scents. Bond No. The perennial lant itself, of course, is gorgeous: tall, with blowsy short-lived flowers that come in a rainbow of shades. 5 Lalique Le Parfum Lalique Word is that next, perfumery is looking to the Orient: China is just discovering the joy of perfume. "An excellent example highlighting the sublimating qualities of this material can be found in Tom Fords Fougere DArgent. Amazingly, this grey-leafed toughie gives off a lovely, almost straw-like sweet scent, with hints of honey, tea, rose and chamomile - giving a flowery sweetness to perfumes. That doesnt detract, though, from camellias soft, voluptuous beauty. Thats an evocative name for a fragrance ingredient, if ever we heard one. Amouage Memoir Woman Lanvin Arpge When you spritz a scent and get an aquatic hit of melon, its probably not actually melon you smell that so-refreshing summer fruit but an ingredient called calone, one of the best-known synthetic ingredients in a perfumers weaponry. Kylie Minogue Music Box Creed Love in Black Diptyque Opne Mangifera indica originates in the Indian subcontinent, where its prized for its spiritual significance (and even now, its celebrated as the royal fruit); today, there are over 1,000 species in the world. Even some products labeled. Leather and perfumery go way back together, meanwhile. Magnolia, musk, tangerine and Bulgarian rose create a sensual warm floral. There are two types of civet: one African (its habitat spans Ethiopia through to South Africa), and Indian, native to Nepal, Bangladesh and Vietnam. And no wonder, because it comes from the intestines of sperm whales. "Amber provides sophistication and sensuality to a fragrance." Ambergris We love the idea that (as fragrance writer Mandy Aftel puts it), black pepper isnt just thought to stimulate the mind, but to warm the indifferent heart, Perfumer Andy Tauer tells us he's still experimenting with it, as an ingredient. (Its still widely used in religious rites, across different cultures and has become very widespread in our homes, in the form of burning sticks and joss-sticks.). And, adds Alienor Massenet, 'it's very animalic'. Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile Serge Lutens Tubreuse Criminelle. Diptyque Ofresia The ingredients used to create this are a mixture of both natural and synthetic, commonly used are vanilla, patchouli, labdanum, styrax, benzoin and a few more. Synthetic sources of the molecule vanillin that characterizes vanilla have allowed us to add this delicious and additive note to fragrances across a broad variety of applications. Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Este Lauder Private Collection "It turns a scent into a chypre, into a fougere, into an amber. Atelier Cologne Oolong Infini Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio Clinique Happy Este Lauder Knowing Byredo Accord Oud Lolita Lempicka Lolita Lempicka This powerful oil can then be played with by perfumers, who use it as an ultra-feminine heart note. For Men 4.3 (11,569) 594 849 30% off Free delivery Ad FOGG Scent Impressio Eau de Parfum - 100 ml For Men 4.2 (1,98,298) 387 650 40% off Best Vegan Layering Perfume: Dedcool MILK. Calvin Klein Escape In the Victorians language of flowers, gardenia stood for refinement and purity. Theyre incredibly bitter on the tongue, used to flavour vermouth and absinthe (if youre a Martini fan, youll get the connection instantly). It also cured snakebite, increased fertility and was a cornerstone of Four Thieves Vinegar, a blend of herbs alleged to ward off the plague. Donna Karan DKNY Juicy Couture Peace, Love & Juicy Couture Sarah Jessica Parker SJP NYC Boucheron Japur Bracelet And the mandarin tree gives us mandarin petitgrain, with a thyme-like scent. Boadicea The Victorious Magnificent Were used to slooshing this onto our salads or into our frying pans but spritzing it onto our pulse-points? According to the Australian Orchid Society, "Old Totonac lore has it that Xanat, the young daughter of the Mexican fertility goddess, loved a Totonac youth. (Rather usefully, benzoin multi-tasks as an antiseptic and an inhalant, as well as a stypic, i.e. Marc Jacobs Honey Because cinnamon bark oil is a sensitiser and as such, you may cinnamates on perfume packaging, as a warning where natural cinnamons used, its likely to have been distilled from the leaves and twigs. Aldehydes are actually a family of ingredients: they can be metallic, starchy, citrusy, waxy. Certainly no hot-blooded Roman, homesick for a city where rosewater bubbled through the fountains, awnings soaked in rose oil shielded VIPs in public amphitheatres from the baking sun, pillows and mattresses were stuffed with rosepetals (the better to propel the weary towards dreamland) and where rose garlands were the ultimate Roman must-have status symbol. Paloma Picasso Paloma Picasso "We have seen our online sales increase between 150 and 200 percent, depending on . ', Britney Spears Circus Fantasy Xerjoff Irisss Guerlain Vetiver "AmberXtreme is the superpower of perfumers. Its extreme power will boost any fragrance composition with intense woody and ambery notes, which consumers around the world have learned to recognize and love," says perfumer Carlos Benaim. The idea is that watery fragrances should actually should smell breezy, outdoorsy, like the mist thats in the air when we take a walk on a beach with the surf crashing against the sand. In an expert perfumers hands, though, that potency works to emphasise and amplify other ingredients, like patchouli, or to cut through what can be the overwhelming sweetness of tuberose and other white flowers. The daisy-like chamomile isnt one note, its two because different varieties offer different nuances to a perfumer. Can anyone whos not a trained nose tell the difference between this and an actual peach? (And although described as blue, they can be tinged from white to pink to deep, almost hyacinth in colour). undecalactone) smells delectably peach-like and edible, and we defy most untrained noses to tell the difference. (Its also used in folk medicine.) Boucheron Boucheron (Other orchids - obviously not used in perfumery - can stink of rotten meat, or faeces. Prada Intense Prada David & Victoria Beckham Intense Instinct Now, as we know, its in countless foods, and most of us have a love-hate relationship with the stuff. The extract comes from the peel of the fruit, and is grapefruit-y and green at the same time. Walk past a hedgerow in full blossom and youll breathe the spicy, almond-like scent of the flowers which has been prized for centuries by perfumers. Nasomatto Black Afgano Francis Kurkdjian APOM Pour Femme Commonly, ambrette is used as a substitute for true musk. I love working with clary sage for its clean, pastel, genderless versatility," says perfumer Mackenzie Reilly. If youve been put off by a run-in with a Strawberry Shortcake doll, dont write this fruit ingredient off till youve discovered the strawberrys grown-up, sophisticated side in those scents listed below, Chopard Wish (IMHO). In perfumery, date is used as a fruitily sweet fantasy note especially in gourmand fragrances giving a drizzle of caramel, honeyed, buttery sweetness. "Rose has a unique signature, which immediately brings uniqueness into a fragrance: its presence just cant be faked., A real Rose de Mai is a distillation of a Centifolia rose grown in the Grasse area in France. It also blends beautifully with sweet pea and with tuberose. ), Other ingredients, too like extracts of ambrette seed, galbanum and angelica root can also deliver a musky sensuality to a perfume. Whatever: it takes kilo upon kilo of flowers to produce the oil around 8,000 hand-picked blooms to produce one millilitre (1 ml) of the absolute which is why its so extraordinarily expensive. Penhaligons Peoneve "Smells like forest bathing to me.". (Though we do also invite you to improve your sense of smell through one of our nationwide workshops for subscribers click here for details. Goutal Songes Maison Martin Margiela Untitled The whole orange family is invaluable to perfumers; mandarin peel has long been used in sachets and pot pourris to scent the home. We love this legend about vanilla which we found on the excellent Perfume Shrine blog. (It clearly has extraordinary preservative powers, able to preserve skin for millennia.) Another important ingredient in masculine perfumes is vetiver. So warm, metallic almost, spicy of course, gourmand, hitting the nose with memories of rice pudding with cinnamon sugar, and making your saliva flow. Library of Fragrance Frankincense The almost bitter green leaf offers us a sense of cool and shade. Its more romantic French name is mousse de chne, but this tight-curled plant botanical name Evernia prunastri - is actually a lichen which grows on oaks throughout Europe and North Africa, only flourishing in unpolluted air. All types of petitgrain contain aroma compounds known as geraniol and linalool that are known to trigger sensitivity in some people, so are listed on perfume packaging. An aroma compound that has a soft, radiant jasmine aroma, hedoine was synthesized in the late 1950s. Ah, sweet violets. Roger & Gallet Jean-Marie Farina Wonderful, and a reminder how precious peace is.'. Herms 24 Faubourg The word licorice (or liquorice) comes from the Old French licoresse, and originally from the Greek meaning sweet root (it really is, if youve ever chewed a licorice stick). A perfect ingredient to blend with patchouli and spices. With a sharp balsamic-spicy, almost lemony scent, elemis invaluable as an incense ingredient and also for fixing perfumes, tethering ingredients which otherwise would fade fast. Onefine day I will buy a few kilos of real raspberry extract, though, and make my ultimate fruity Tauer. Noses professional perfumers - love, love, LOVE ionones. Cool, green, shady: were eternally fascinated by how perfumers use scented ingredients to give a sense of temperature, through their creations. It can actually be created in nature through the activity of a bacteria called Streptomyces, along with a special enzyme. Molton Brown Mesmerising Oudh Accord & Gold Intoxicating, hallucinogenic, life-threatening plants yes, truly datura (a.k.a. Many of us have enjoyed mango on holiday (though theyre rarely so perfectly succulent when theyve been transported half-way across the world). Ferns have actually given their name to an entire category of fragrances: fougre. It is dual, it has a multifarious seduction. A top note of lime makes for the brightest and most energising of first encounters, in a fragrance lighter and sweeter than a lemon, but at the same time more intense. Balenciaga Balenciaga Paris But in fact, orange blossoms versatility lends itself to all kinds of fragrances so its very widely used, acting too as a natural fixative to prolong the life of will-o-the-wisp ingredients. , meanwhile citrusy, waxy Dior Chrie Oddly enough, I find that my customers describe certain synthetic fragrances fresh... An excellent example highlighting the sublimating qualities of this material can be metallic, starchy, citrusy waxy! Surprisingly, as well as a stypic, i.e with woods or -! To me. `` Rather usefully, benzoin multi-tasks as an antiseptic and an,!, meanwhile multi-tasks as an antiseptic and an actual peach working with clary sage for its clean pastel... Calvin Klein Escape in the late 1950s a repellent the flower which emerges later certain synthetic fragrances as fresh natural! 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